Only the finest jeans are made of selvage denim.
"Selvage denim is made on old-style shuttle looms rather than modern, projectile looms. In simple terms, this means during the fabric weaving process, the cross-thread goes back and forth as one continuous thread, rather than as individual threads for each cross weave. As a result, selvage denim has a clean edge. Modern, single thread weaving has a frayed edge.
The selvage edge is usually stitched with a colored thread and on vintage jeans, you'll find red, white, green, brown or yellow thread running down the edge, the most common being red. This distinction was made by fabric mills to differentiate between fabrics. True vintage jeans can be recognized the selvage edge.
Japanese selvage denim is the finest and most rare on the market today.
Historically, American denim was considered superior. In time, however, because shuttle looms only made 30-inch wide cloth, they became obsolete. In the 1950’s, when American jean manufacturers saw demand for their product skyrocket, they searched for faster, less expensive methods for producing denim fabric. They mothballed the traditional shuttle-type looms in favor of modern, projectile looms which could make a 60-inch wide fabric (or wider) for much less money. The fabric produced, however, was lighter and less durable. Manufacturers also replaced real indigo dye with synthetic substitutes and began pre-washing all fabric in order to control shrink and twist. The byproduct of these changes was an article lacking character with no potential for greatness.
Three decades later, select Japanese companies saw a market for traditionally made denim. They bought up most of the old, American shuttle looms and began crafting denim for small, local clothing companies. When the “Premium Denim” craze began, a few forward thinking companies introduced jeans made of selvage denim dyed with real indigo.
Quality denim is indigo dyed using loop dying machines which, like the looms, are rare and ancient machines., Some brands use up to 30 dips, creating a rich, deep indigo blue color with excellent character.
As for the raw materials, the best manufacturers use 100% cotton threads, which though they break more easily during. This stitching requires a special machine, which again, has not been produced for the past 40 years. Whenever possible, superior denim manufacturers use Union Special brand machines, the "Rolls Royce" of American sewing machines from the fifties.
The immense care put into the detailing of this unique denim fabric, from the raw material to the weaving, dying and stitching, creates a jean of exceptional quality. Denim produced on shuttle looms is naturally irregular and these irregularities are enhanced as the jeans age, causing every pair to develop a unique and beautiful pattern as it fades. The deep blue color and the way the jeans fade can only be achieved by using the loop dying system. These details give the jeans authenticity and give you the knowledge that you own an article of the highest quality. Like fine wood, jeans made of selvage denim will only become more beautiful with age and wear, acquiring a patina unique to the wearer that is impossible to reproduce artificially. Each pair transforms in to a one of a kind piece. Owning and wearing jeans made of selvage denim is a very personal experience that no other item of clothing can give you."
The Stylest: Selvage denim is to be worn as much as possible within a week (everyday for best results) without washing them. This process goes on for about 6months to a 1 year. To some people this might sound disgusting, but to other that understand selvage denim and crave that visual aftermath of the "hard work," not washing the jeans can be looked at as pure genius.
Personally, I think selvage denim is rad!!! Nudie happens to be my favorite brand. I own the Nudie Mesa Japanese Selvage (500 pair produced). To be able to take something and individualize it like you can with selvage denim is so fetch. You can wear the same size and buy the same exact jean as someone else and get different results?? sign me up. Japanese denim is like the texas instrument of calculators, the Brita of filtered water, or maybe even the rappin' 4 tay of hip hop lyricist...tehehehe. Grab you some selvages and get rid of the k.e.rocafella's, trust."
Ps: I shop at Context in Madison, WI for my Selveges. aka Context.com. Amazing customer service and a nice selection. Denimbar.com also has some goodies.
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